Canon 1000D.
The EOS 1000D is Canon’s cheapest EOS DSLR and one of its oldest, having been launched as far back as July 2008. It just happens to be a refreshingly straightforward digital SLR which delivers good-quality pictures without blinding you with science every five minutes. The 10-megapixel CMOS sensor is old hat by today’s standards, but the quality is still very good, and you might only get a 2.5-inch LCD, but it’s very bright and clear and displays all the necessary shooting information in big, bold characters you can see from a mile off. You also get Canon’s rather good Digital Photo Professional RAW converter as part of the package. The 1000D is cheap and simple enough for beginners, but carries on being direct, straightforward and effective as you gain experience.Why should you buy it... The 1000D offers straightforward, no-nonsense controls, good picture quality and a great introduction to the EOS system.
Canon 550D.
The EOS 550D is at the opposite end of the spectrum to the EOS 1000D. It has Canon’s very latest 18-megapixel CMOS sensor, which it shares with the much more advanced EOS 7D, a full HD movie mode with manual controls, and even an external microphone socket. The EOS 550D is not just a digital SLR, then, but a semi-professional movie camera. Increasing the sensor resolution usually increases noise, but Canon’s done a fantastic job with the noise reduction on this camera, and the quality is terrific right up to ISO 3200 (it drops a bit at the ISO 6400 maximum, though). This camera does do an awful lot, but it’s still very easy to use. Canon’s really good at designing camera exteriors so that all the major controls (white balance, ISO and so on) are clear and easy to get to, and the new Quick Control screen is perfect for those upgrading from a compact because it lets you adjust the settings on the LCD display.Why should you buy it ... You get the highest resolution of any APS-C sensor, a full HD movie mode with manual controls and a brilliant control layout.
Nikon D3000.
The D3000 is Nikon’s equivalent to Canon’s EOS 1000D. It’s a bargain-basement DSLR using trailing edge sensor technology and a simplified set of options to tempt beginners. It’s small, light and very easy to use. Pretty well everything is controlled via an on-screen interface, though after a while this could become a liability rather than an asset. It’s all very clear and logical, but slow. The 10-megapixel sensor is a little out of date by today’s standards, too, though this camera still produces very good, sharp pictures, not least because the 18-55mm VR (Vibration Reduction) zoom is one of the best kit lenses around. The old-fashioned technology means there’s no live view or movie mode, though Nikon has included a surprisingly sophisticated 11-point autofocus system. The whole package, kit lens included, is very good value for money, though it’s also worth considering the more expensive but much more sophisticated Nikon D5000.
Why should you buy it.... The D3000 small, light and inexpensive, and comes with a very good kit lens. It’s also easy to understand, thanks to built-in picture-taking tips.
Nikon D3100.
The 14.2-megapixel Nikon D3100 is a great entry-level digital SLR. It's the least-expensive D-SLR to capture 1080p video. It also includes a feature no other D-SLR has continuous autofocus during video recording, which makes the D3100 feel like a camcorder while it's shooting. The camera can detect faces, lock on, and adjust the focus automatically to make video capture even easier. The only problem is that the lens isn't silent, so every time it refocuses you'll hear it.
Why should you buy it.... The D3100 is power house of features.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-G10.
Panasonic’s replaced its original G1 DSLR hybrid with two models. One is a cheaper, budget version (the G10) while the other is a more sophisticated offering with touch-screen shooting and an articulating rear LCD. The G10 might be more basic, but the price makes it much more attractive to beginners and more competitive against the likes of the Canon EOS 1000D and Nikon D3000. It’s a very nicely-designed camera, with a high-quality plastic finish and light, precise controls. The 460,000-pixel LCD on the back is very good, but it’s a shame Panasonic’s economised on the EVF. The G1’s had 1.4 million pixels and looked great, but this one has just 202,000 pixels and looks rather grotty. On the plus side, Panasonic’s contrast detection autofocus system is really fast, and easily a match for the best DSLRs. The picture quality is first rate, too, thanks in part to the excellent 14-42mm kit lens.
Why should you buy it ....It’s a well-made camera that’s easy to use and produces great results, and the autofocus in live view is streets ahead of anything a DSLR can do.
Sony Alpha A290.
Sony’s entry level digital SLR is one up on its rivals from Nikon and Canon because it has a 14.2 megapixel sensor, where the EOS 1000D and Nikon D3000 make do with 10 megapixels. Whether you’ll see much difference in the pictures is another story, but it’s reassuring to have the numbers on your side. This isn’t the same 14-megapixel sensor you get in Sony’s more up-market SLRs and the NEX hybrids, though. They use CMOS chips where the a290 uses a CCD. As a result, you have to make do without such luxuries as live view and movie modes. That’s not a problem if you just want a basic, straightforward camera, though, and the a290 is certainly that. It has the added benefit of Sony’s SteadyShot INSIDE anti-shake system. It doesn’t seem as effective as Pentax’s at cutting shake, but it’s worth having nonetheless. Sony’s DSLRs don’t always have a lot of finesse, but they are good value, and can end up heavily discounted as time goes by.
Why Should you buy it .. It’s basic, effective and offers more resolution than you’ll get anywhere else at this price.
These are some great DSLR cameras to begin with once you have mastered these babies you can move towards more professional cameras.
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